### The Secret Behind the Flavor
The bold kick of black pepper is what gives this fried chicken its distinctive heat. Cooking in lard not only creates a beautifully golden crust but also ensures the meat remains tender and juicy. By breaking down a whole chicken into twelve pieces, including two back sections, this method exemplifies Midwestern culinary ingenuity at its finest.
I’ve often joked that the fried chicken from southeastern Indiana, with its intense pepperiness, serves as the Midwest’s counterpart to Nashville’s renowned hot chicken—a spicy delight for those who consider black pepper to be their benchmark for heat.
However, the Hoosier tradition of fried chicken is no laughing matter. Southeastern Indiana—where Colonel Sanders spent much of his formative years before relocating to Kentucky—is one of America’s premier destinations for exceptional fried chicken.
Wagner’s Village Inn in Oldenburg has garnered accolades such as the James Beard America’s Classic Award and has been featured in prestigious publications like The New York Times. Their signature dish consists of an economical twelve-piece cut that includes back pieces and is skillet-fried in lard, resulting in an especially flavorful and tender offering.
After returning to my hometown of Cincinnati in 2019, I quickly became a frequent visitor at Wagner’s just across the state line. During the pandemic lockdowns, once travel restrictions eased up again, I began treating my hour-and-a-half round trips as mini getaways—culminating each journey with a takeout feast featuring their famous fried chicken (if I could resist devouring drumsticks on my way home).
While you can order individual pieces at Wagner’s, their menu emphasizes a complete dinner that includes mashed potatoes, green beans, coleslaw, warm dinner rolls, and authentic skillet gravy—the only way I’ve ever enjoyed it. These sides enhance the experience so much that dining at Wagner’s feels like celebrating a special occasion.
Last year when Cincinnati Magazine commissioned me to write about southeastern Indiana’s fried chicken scene, it provided me with an opportunity to explore other local establishments known for their offerings. While all were worth sampling; I found myself agreeing with an Indiana gas station cashier who sighed when asked about alternatives: “Wagner’s is the place around here,” he said emphatically. “That’s where I’d go every time.” To my knowledge, it’s one of the few spots left using traditional lard and cast iron skillets while others have switched over to canola oil or deep fryers—no wonder it stands out!
During my first visit to Wagner’s restaurant years ago under then-owner Ginger Saccomando (who has since passed on ownership), she invited me into their kitchen: “Call ahead next time; we’ll show you how we do things,” she suggested.
So earlier this year I took her up on that offer! Spending an hour alongside manager Patricia Caldwell and cook Nolan Lecher allowed me insight into their cooking process while peppering them with questions about what makes their fried chicken so special. As it turns out—it boils down simply: “We keep it straightforward,” Nolan explained succinctly.
The Wagner Method
The Chicken Their process begins with small chickens weighing around three pounds sourced from O’Mara Foods based in Greensburg—a supplier for many local restaurants specializing in fried fare. Smaller birds cook more evenly and quickly; O’Mara also breaks them down into parts including back sections which are utilized according regional traditions maximizing every bit from each bird.
The Seasonings
At Wagner’s kitchen staff season each piece by tossing them generously with salt along coarse-ground black pepper without measuring until recently due increased demand following awards recognition—they now use standardized measuring tools! After seasoning they allow resting time up-to thirty minutes but it’s not mandatory—it merely helps during busy service times!
Their choice? An 18-mesh grind sourced from foodservice suppliers—you might find something similar available locally too! (I personally prefer McCormick brand). Yes—I usually grind fresh myself… except when making this specific recipe because achieving consistency matters greatly if aiming replicate authentic flavors found at Wagners’.
Once seasoned thoroughly they coat each piece within unseasoned flour ensuring even coverage before frying begins!
Frying Technique & Fat Choice
Next comes heating pure non-hydrogenated lard inside vintage cast-iron skillets dating back since opening day 1968—not wanting oil too hot upon adding raw poultry instead opting lukewarm temperature allowing absorption during initial cooking phase creating confit-like texture prior reaching high-heat fry stage later on!
They carefully lift floured pieces placing skin-side-down directly onto rendered fat crowding pans slightly yet maintaining single layer arrangement (two birds per pan). Heat cranked high until sizzling commences allowing bottoms brown nicely over half-hour duration flipping midway through cooking cycle finishing off another fifteen-twenty minutes total depending doneness levels achieved throughout process monitored closely via thermometer readings checking breast meat should reach160°F while thighs/drumsticks hit175°F benchmarks respectively before transferring finished product onto wire racks draining excess grease letting rest briefly prior serving up deliciousness straight away!
For gravy preparation leftover drippings collected strained through cheesecloth yielding rich flavor base whisked together forming roux thickened further if necessary utilizing reserved dredging flour mixed gradually incorporating stock brought boil simmering gently thickening five minutes max till desired consistency reached finally seasoning adjusted accordingly based personal preference tastes served alongside meal enhancing overall experience immensely enjoyed best paired simple sides coleslaw mashed potatoes green beans warm rolls etc…
Recreating This Fried Chicken At Home
Sounds easy enough right? Well—I tried replicating Wagners’ famed dish within own kitchen but faced numerous challenges ultimately leading frustration after ruining batch after batch attempting find perfect balance timing/temperature combinations eventually realizing differences between home equipment versus professional-grade ranges used there made significant impact results obtained despite efforts put forth trying emulate exact methods employed by skilled chefs working diligently behind scenes daily basis…
After countless trials ended settling closer standard frying procedures adjusting temperatures lower than recommended initially frying between300-325℉for shorter durations totaling fifteen-twenty minutes maximum yield similar outcomes compared original techniques described above albeit not identical still produced satisfying results nonetheless honoring traditions upheld generations past whilst embracing animal fats essential achieving golden hues savory flavors crispy textures setting apart unique qualities defining Wagners’ style distinctly recognizable anywhere else encountered throughout region today…
#### Crispy Peppery Fried Chicken Recipe
Ingredients:
- 1 small whole chicken (~3 pounds)
- 1 tablespoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt
- 2½ tablespoons coarse ground black pepper
- 4 cups pure non-hydrogenated lard
- 2 cups all-purpose flour - Optional: Coleslaw & sides like mashed potatoes or green beans
Instructions:
1) Cut your bird into twelve portions. 2) Season generously using salt/pepper mixture coating evenly. 3) Heat lard medium-high until reaches360℉(180℃). 4) Dredge seasoned pieces thoroughly then add carefully skin-side-down ensuring fit snugly within pan. 5) Fry until golden brown adjusting heat maintain optimal range300–325°F(149–163℃). 6) Transfer cooked items onto wire rack drain excess fat let rest briefly serve piping hot enjoy alongside favorite accompaniments!
This recipe captures essence behind beloved dishes bringing joy countless diners visiting quaint towns across southeastern Indiana showcasing culinary heritage worth celebrating every bite taken savoring memories created shared amongst family friends alike gathered around table enjoying good food together!